Backcountry Bibles: Lewis Pass National Reserve

Showing posts with label Lewis Pass National Reserve. Show all posts

15 February 2016

Lewis Tops, Lewis Pass National Reserve - 6-7 February 2016

A long weekend and a fine weather forecast...ingredients that make an overnight tramp a winning recipe.

After giving Julia a couple of options, it was agreed to head for the Lewis Tops, a trip I'd been keen to do for some time, having driven the highway countless times over the years.

Most people park at the well known St James Walkway carpark, located right on Lewis Pass itself. The track starts across the road and about 100m up the road from the carpark. However, this carpark is prone to vandalism (as we experienced when doing the Zampa Tops trip) so I was reluctant to park there overnight. Fortunately there's another option, if you're in the know, located at the summit of the highway, and it was here that we parked.

The track used to start from here, and that section still remains and links up with the main track so this is still a good option.

Leaving the car we set off into the bush. Initially the track was rough as it's no longer the main track but was easily followed, and in only 5 minutes we had joined the main track. Vibrant, soft mosses lined the track, making it delightful walking as we sidled round for a short distance before starting the climb proper.

It was quite a steep climb up through the bush, with very little respite, and made for quite slow going on what had become a rather hot afternoon. After about 20 minutes there was a break in the bush cover, allowing decent views across the valley - a hint of what was to come higher up. This break helps to form a lookout of sorts, and would make a good option for walkers just wanting a very short stroll up to take in the views on offer - there's even a seat at the end of a short side track!
Thankfully it was only a short break, and we happily plunged back into the shade of the bush as we made our way up.

It became evident that quite a few others had had the same idea as us. We passed a couple quite early on, carrying their 2 and a half year old up for a night out on the tops. As we made our way up, our numerous stops meant others caught us up, and so we discovered there were 14 of us spread out through the bush. As it turned out, we were all moving at quite a similar pace, and so kept passing each other as each group took their turn at stopping for a breather.

The highlight of the climb through the bush would have to be seeing a kea taking a tree to task. We stood for several minutes watching, enjoying seeing the bird in a different way than we'd seen them in the past. We were surprised, although shouldn't have been given it was a bird!, at how nimble it was hopping from branch to branch, all the while gnawing away on the trunk, oblivious to its' captivated audience (or was it putting on a show for us?).

After 90 minutes we reached the bushline. Any concerns over it being blazing hot were quickly dispelled, as a lovely cool breeze was blowing over the tops, balancing the heat of the sun.

Above bushline the climbing continued, as we set off up a steep face that rose wall-like in front of us. Once at the top the gradient eased. I for one was pleased, having assured Julia it would once out of the bush, but we weren't done yet. A series of knobs had to be passed until finally we topped out on the highest one - Pt 1568m.
The views were all encompassing. Being the highest point along the ridge, a 360 degree panorama unfolded around us, sweeping round from the Freyberg Range to the north, to the Spenser Mountains, the Opera and Libretto Ranges, and round to Mt Technical and The Apprentice further along the Lewis Tops. Away to the west in the distance we could make out the Paparoa Range, beyond which lies the West Coast.

Once over Pt 1568m, the route was a delightful amble across undulating tops. A short distance beyond Pt 1568m lay the first tarn along the tops. Although it's a reasonable size, and looked beautiful, it sits quite a way below the main ridge so I was hoping to continue on to a larger tarn, which Julia was happy to do.
After passing a couple of very small tarns nestled in a slight depression along the ridge, we passed over Pt 1561m and there was our tarn, sparkling in the afternoon sun. It looked a glorious spot so we dropped down off the ridge to scout out a campsite. There were several lovely spots on offer, but we chose almost the ultimate in backcountry real estate - a spot on the tip of a small finger of land jutting out into the tarn. It meant we had water on all sides which was pretty nice.
We set up and whiled away the afternoon in the sun drinking coffee, taking photos, and just soaking up the tranquility of the place. Despite the fact that there was several parties on the same route we had the tarn to ourselves - one of the joys of there being a tarn in nearly every hollow along the tops, everyone was able to enjoy their own space.

As evening closed in, so did the cloud. We watched it slowly spilling over the tops of the Libretto Range, before it found its' way to us. The drop in temperature, and the dampness of the cloud, sent us into the tent, retiring early for the night.

Opening the tent door the next morning saw us greeted with a truly majestic scene. The evening cloud had cleared, leaving a serene yet moody landscape, the brooding skies reflected in the still waters of the tarn.
We spent a good hour or so wandering round, watching the day begin to reveal itself, before returning to the tent for breakfast and then to pack down.

The return trip was a delight in the cool of the morning, although by the time we started to descend off Pt 1568m down to the bushline the heat was becoming noticeable.
This descent illustrated how steep the climb up had been. While I didn't notice it so much going up, when faced with descending the true nature of the terrain was revealed. Once back in the bush though we made fast time, reaching the car 40 minutes after entering the bush.

A glorious trip, the Lewis Tops on a fine day are a trampers paradise and well worth the effort required to reach them.

Vibrant mosses line the lower part of the bush track

First views across towards the Freyberg Range

Julia gaining height

Climbing above bushline, Trovatore (1737m) across the valley

Up the steep face we go, with Cannibal Gorge running away in behind

Reward for all the climbing

Looking across to Mt Freyberg (1817m)

The first tarn, below the ridge between Pts 1568m and 1561m

Cruising along the tops

A couple of small tarns along the ridge

Looking west down the Maruia River

Our home for the night, with Mt Technical (1870m) rising behind

Approaching the tarn we camped beside, with the Lewis Tops rambling on ahead of us

Sweet campsite at 1500m

Time for a cuppa!

Relaxing in the afternoon sun

Looking along the Lewis Tops to The Apprentice (1678m)

Alpine flowers grow abundantly here

Dinner prep on a glorious evening

A wonderful spot in the late evening light

Cloud starting to spill over the Libretto Range...

...and soon over our way too.

A moody yet serene scene welcomed us as we opened the tent

Campsite on a peaceful morning

Looking down into Deer Valley below us, and along the Lewis Valley

First rays of sun as it rises over the Libretto Range

The sun starting to show through the cloud

Wonderful sun rays across the valley

A great morning to be in the mountains

Sun kissing the tops of the Freyberg Range as we look on from a field of alpine flowers

Looking west down the Maruia Valley at dawn

Sun bursting through the cloud above the Libretto Range

Sun bursting through the cloud above the Libretto Range as we return for a cuppa

Weta

Leaving the tarn, our campsite was at the end of the finger of land out in the tarn

The Lewis Tops, with some others spots visible

An indication of the sheer drop down on the Maruia side

Passing the first tarn again on our way back up to Pt 1568m

Trovatore (1737m) and Travers Peak (1724m), seen from Pt 1568m

Looking down the line of the Lewis Pass Highway, with the Libretto Range marching off into the distance

Maruia River Right Branch

Crown Copyright - Land Information NZ

Access: Drive on SH7 to Lewis Pass and either park at the main signposted carpark or at the hidden layby at the summit of the road.

Time: Carpark to bushline 1hr 30mins, bushline to campsite 1hr, return 1hr 40mins

Map: BT23 Lewis Pass

Hut: None

31 January 2015

Lake Daniell, Lewis Pass National Reserve - 14-16 January 2015

As far as tramping as a family goes, we had only barely dipped our toes in the water so to speak, having done easy tracks around Mt Thomas and in to Ryde Falls near Oxford. When a friend suggested a couple of nights at Lake Daniell as families I was keen to take the plunge and dive right into it. So, after some discussion, and with me assuring my wife Julia that I was happy to carry "whatever it takes to get us there!", we packed up and set off.

We left Oxford to a steady drizzle, welcome relief for the parched land, and with it pushing in from the east we were confident it would be fine at Lake Daniell, which lies just to the west of the Divide over Lewis Pass. This proved to be the case, and we pulled in to the carpark at Marble Hill to be greeted by sun, warmth, and sandflies.
After a quick bite of lunch we shouldered packs (mine had weighed in at 28kg) and hit the trail, 4 adults and 6 rather excited kids - if anyone was at the hut for a quiet night away they were going to be in for a surprise!

I had walked the track many years ago - too long ago to remember much of it except for 'The Sluice Box' and the seat at the Pell Stream junction. The Sluice Box is an impressive bridge crossing a few metres above the Maruia River, at a point where the river is funneled through a narrow gorge-like slot. It's only a few minutes from the carpark and is worth a look.
The walk in was a breeze. Any concerns about complaining kids were quickly dispelled as they entertained themselves with the simple things, the things we adults often overlook or even fail to notice, things like counting how many footbridges we crossed or finding the next rodent trap and checking it - there are 80 traps along the track and very few had caught anything, meaning either the 1080 drop a few months back was very successful, or the predators are getting ample food from other sources...hopefully the former!

After a couple of snack stops we arrived at the hut in good time, 2hr 45mins, and were pleased to find there were plenty of beds still available, even scoring a whole bunkroom to ourselves. There was a party of 4 staying the night in the hut, as well as a couple of separate parties tenting.

Manson Nicholls Memorial Hut stands just back from the lake shore and commands wonderful views of the area. The hut has tragic origins, built in memory of 3 young Christchurch trampers who were killed when a mudslide buried the old Lake Daniells Fishing Club Hut which occupied a site more to the southwest corner of the lake.
The fishing club and the Christchurch Tramping Club joined forces to erect the current hut, which was completed in 1976. It boasts 24 bunks, in 2 separate bunkrooms, a coal/wood burner with supplied fuel, and running water with taps inside.

It had been a warm walk in, and before long we were all treating ourselves to a swim in the lake. At 558m altitude, Lake Daniell is not a particularly high alpine lake and this, coupled with the fact that the water is very shallow at the southern end, made for pleasant swimming.
The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing in the sun. Julia took the opportunity to fashion a bow by weaving together strands of flax and tensioning it to the right sized piece of wood - clever lady my wife!
This proved so successful that the next morning all the kids were busying themselves with bow-making. From then on it was a mix of swimming and games in the forest around the hut, indulging in our own form of 'Hunger Games'.

As lunch approached we packed up some supplies and headed round to the top end of the lake, where there is a nice little beach, complete with bench seat. The track is well used but not maintained, and is currently strewn with windfall. It's all easily negotiated but does add a bit of time to the usual 30 minute trip - we took 40. At the northern end the lake drops away steeply, enabling the more capable ones to swim at greater depth and those with fishing rods to try their hand in deeper waters. Unfortunately success eluded us but a fun time was had nonetheless.

I was keen to venture further on, to make a visit to Thompsons Flat Hut which lies another 40 minutes or so from the lake head. An old 4WD track leads away from the lake (starting at around BT23 417177) and is easily followed. It would appear to have been a long time since any vehicle went through, but there is plenty of foot traffic as the numerous muddy sections all have well worn bypasses round them. At times the track seemed a bit vague but where it starts to narrow and fade out a bit there are markings on trees to guide you.
We emerged from the bush after around 30 minutes and could see the hut across what appeared to be a pleasant grassy flat. Appearances proved deceiving however, and the flat was a wet bog. After a few minutes of trying to hop along on firm ground it was obvious that we were going to get wet feet so decided to just make a beeline for the hut. By this stage I had 5 year old Lincoln on my shoulders, the bog far too difficult for his willing legs to negotiate, and the 10 minutes of slogging through soft, at times knee deep muck was challenging, but the 4 of us who had made the trip all arrived at the hut comfortably.

Thompsons Flat Hut is privately owned but is open for public use. It's a very basic hut, with 4 bunks and a fireplace.
We didn't stay long, enough to take some photos and have a look around, and were soon faced with crossing the bog again. The idea of skirting the edges was tried but was no better than a direct line back across to the bush so we chose the direct route. Our return to Lake Daniell was marked with a splash in the water to wash the muck from our boots and ourselves.

Our final day dawned slightly ominously, with a nor'west wind building and the prospect of rain coming with it. Eager to get back to the cars dry we simply packed up and set off. By now some of the kids were feeling the effects of the constant swimming, charging round in the bush with bows, and the strains of lack of sleep, and their legs were not so willing as our walk in.
Despite this though we made it to the car in only 2hr 30mins, capping the end of a successful foray into family tramping.

Now...where to next?