I had gotten wind of a Christchurch Tramping Club (CTC) trip that I liked the look of in an area I don't know all that well, so welcomed the opportunity to join their trip, which was being led by someone who apparently knew the area extremely well.
The plan, I'll call it Plan A, was to head up what's known locally as the Klondyke Valley (formally marked on maps as the Rahu River Right Branch), camp by the tarns at the head of the valley, then head out along the tops the next day. Snow was forecast for Friday, and it duly fell to low levels, but the real problem lay over the weekend - gale force southwest winds for Saturday, followed by gale force northwest winds and heavy rain for Sunday. The prospect of a high camp in such conditions was no longer appealing, and so on Friday afternoon Plan A was placed on the scrap heap.
Plan B was formed, this being a tramp up Carlyle Stream at Glenhope Station, overnighting at the interesting looking Carlyle Hut, before heading out on Sunday. Our leader found Glenhope Station impossible to contact, which meant we were faced with fording the Hope River in order to access Carlyle Stream. In good conditions this is a difficult ford, following the heavy rain and snow on Friday - not a viable option. Which led to Plan C.
Plan C involved heading up into the head of the Hope River, looking at staying at either Top Hope or St Jacobs Hut. Again the weather that struck the area on Friday was the winner, as there had been such heavy snowfall on Lewis Pass that the main highway was totally closed to all vehicles at the Hanmer Springs road junction. Plan D anyone??
And that's how we found ourselves at Fowlers Hut on Tophouse Rd over the back of Hanmer Springs - it was about the only place we could actually get to! The newly hatched plan was to head over Fowlers Pass to Lake Guyon, an easy weekend trip, but one that was now transformed into something less typical, and a bit more special, due to the covering of fresh snow all around us.
The tramp up to Fowlers Pass is straight forward, following the old pack track that would have been heavily used back in the active days of St James Station. It is well graded, almost constant the entire way up to the pass, and we were able to make good progress despite the deep snow underfoot.
As we neared the pass we were met by, at times, very strong winds funneling through the pass, winds that swept up the fresh powder snow and blasted us with some ferocity with a wall of white, forcing us to turn our backs and ride it out.
We gained Fowlers Pass (1296m) after an hour and a half, but it was no place to linger so, after a few quick photos, we dropped down into Smyths Stream. It was more direct to ignore the zig-zag track that works its' way down to the valley, instead we took a straight line down across snow and some small eroded patches and were quickly down in the shelter of the valley.
Smyths Stream was like a winter wonderland park, magnificent with its' deep carpet of snow. In any other season I suspect it wouldn't be as appealing but under snow it was quite magical. It was easy plugging through the snow, following the line of the stream to where it merges with the Stanley River. Here we stopped for lunch, at the toe of Long Spur, which proved a good, albeit cold, spot for lunch with views both up and down the valley.
After a hurried lunch we set off down the Stanley River, which also provided easy going as we made our way down river. The snow, while still present, had thinned considerably which enabled us to make good time, and it wasn't too long before we could see the old historic Stanley Vale Hut off in the distance. Although it meant making a slight detour, we decided to visit the hut and finish lunch there. As we approached we were somewhat surprised to see a horse roaming the flats in front of the hut. Curious, and not at all shy, it came right up to us, checking us over, before placing itself in front of the door to the hut as if standing guard.
We had no trouble entering though, and settled in to the rustic old hut for a bite to eat.
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| Fowlers Hut at the roadside, starting point for the tramp |
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| Low on the pack track up to Fowlers Pass |
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| Plugging our way up to Fowlers Pass |
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| Just below Fowlers Pass, amidst a storm of spindrift |
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| On Fowlers Pass (1296m), looks benign but looks can deceive |
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| Crossing Fowlers Pass, with the head of Smyths Stream behind |
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| Heading across Fowlers Pass, towards the zig-zag |
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| On Fowlers Pass |
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| View of the peaks at the head of Smyths Stream, from Fowlers Pass |
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| Crossing Fowlers Pass |
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| Looking down Smyths Stream, with Mt Stanley (1860m) in the background |
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| Descending into Smyths Stream, the fast way |
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| Encountering deep snow in Smyths Stream |
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| Smyths Stream under snow |
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| One of many attractive pools in Smyths Stream |
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| Smyths Stream |
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| Snow draping the bush in Smyths Stream |
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| Snow draping the bush in Smyths Stream |
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| Enjoying our trip down Smyths Stream |
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| Snow draping the bush in Smyths Stream |
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| Looking back up Smyths Stream, nearing the confluence with the Stanley River |
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| Smyths Stream where it opens out, near the Stanley River confluence |
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| Travel in the lower reaches of Smyths Stream |
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| Smyths Stream in its more open section |
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| View back up Smyths Stream from our lunch spot at the toe of Long Spur, Pt 1730m centre background |
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| Smyths Stream/Stanley River confluence |
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| Looking up the Stanley River, from the toe of Long Spur |
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| Long Spur (left), as we start down the Stanley River |
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| Nearing Stanley Vale, with Rabbit Hill just right of centre |
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| Looking towards Stanley Vale, with the hut located near the cluster of trees above Brian, and Pts 1612m & 1596m rising centre of image |
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| Pausing to take in the scenery during our best patch of weather |
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| Approaching Stanley Vale Hut |
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| Friendly resident of the Stanley Vale |
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| Our friend heading back to the hut |
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| Stanley Vale Hut, complete with guard! |
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| Arrival at Stanley Vale Hut |
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| Stanley Vale Hut |
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| Interior of Stanley Vale Hut - note the mud walls |
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| Interior of Stanley Vale Hut |
Stanley Vale Hut has a long and wonderful history, dating back to around 1866. In the early 1860's, pastoral runs in the area were being taken up, and were all amalgamated to form St James Station. The first of these was taken up by G. Edwards in 1862, and became known as the 'Edwards Block'. Not long after, Edwards transferred his run to G. Willmer, who also had Rockhouse and St Mary's. Added to these were the Lake Guyon, Ada, Henry, and Stanley Vale runs, and this formed what is now known as St James Station.
Stanley Vale Hut is the original homestead of the run bearing the same name, and underwent restoration in 1988. Construction was with mud and timber studs, with lovely timber cladding. It has 2 bunks and a wood-burning fire, but being listed as historic I don't think you can actually stay there, a fact that one long term resident seems to have ignored. It appears that someone spends quite some time at the hut, which boasts a vast collection of books, and of course the horse. The hut log book indicates that a couple of gents have been doing some fencing in the area, and often pack in materials over Fowlers Pass using the horse.
As we prepared to depart for Lake Guyon, snow began to fall again, as another wave of nasty weather swept down the Waiau valley. We set off quickly, eager to reach our destination and settle in before it got too rough. The track led along the base of the hills, and within an hour we had reached the lake only to be met by more snow flurries. A short trip round the lake side on a wide track brought us to the pleasant clearing that houses Lake Guyon Hut, a basic little 4 bunker set a short distance back from the lake edge. It's one of those no frills sort of huts, with just the necessities: beds, heating, and a small cooking area.
It's always nice to arrive at a hut mid-afternoon, as it allows for plenty of time to just sit, relax, and chat, before having to think about cooking dinner. And sit, relax, and chat we did, watching the weather change seemingly every hour, steady snow alternating with breaks of sun.
Dinner was cooked and enjoyed, before we turned in early in the evening, another curious anomaly that occurs quite regularly in backcountry huts. At home I'm up late, but in a hut I'll often find myself with the head on the pillow at the usually unthinkable hour of 8pm.
We woke to a relatively fine day, which soon clouded over. However it appeared, with an early getaway, that we would beat the forecast nor'wester and associated rain. We were away around 8.30am and set off across the flats, bypassing Stanley Vale Hut this time and picking a more direct line towards the Stanley River. It's quite boggy and swampy across these flats but the covering of snow meant we could tread easily.
Rounding the corner and heading up the Stanley, it was obvious that a lot of snow had melted overnight, despite it being reasonably cool, which enabled fast progress to be made up valley. Even the snow in Smyths Stream has thinned significantly and, after a brief snack stop at the Smyths/Stanley confluence, we found ourselves at the foot of the zig-zag up to Fowlers Pass after only 3hrs. This time we took the zig-zag to make the climb up to the pass as it offers a very gentle gradient and is very easy. Fowlers Pass was gained but the idea of stopping for lunch was trumped by the fact we were now only an hour from the car, so we set off down the pack track which was also stripped of much of the snow we had encountered the day before.
We reached the car at around 12.45pm, in just over 4hrs from Lake Guyon so we had made quick time. We made use of Fowlers Hut to unwind and eat lunch, a nice relaxing end to an enjoyable weekend of tramping - not bad for Plan D!!
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| Approaching Lake Guyon as snow sweeps down the Waiau Valley |
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| Snow in the air as we round Lake Guyon |
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| Lake Guyon Hut |
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| The stream running beside Lake Guyon Hut |
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| Lake Guyon - in front of the hut looking towards Yanks Hill & Mt Moki |
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| Lake Guyon - in front of the hut looking towards Yanks Hill & Mt Moki |
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| Inside Lake Guyon Hut |
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| Inside Lake Guyon Hut |
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| Inside Lake Guyon Hut |
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| Preparing to depart Lake Guyon Hut |
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| Lake Guyon Hut beneath Lake Hill (summit out of shot to the right) |
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| Preparing to depart Lake Guyon Hut |
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| Lake Guyon on a perfect morning, with Mt Clara reflected |
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| Rounding Lake Guyon, with Mt Clara (1945m) in the background |
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| Lake Guyon, backed by Yanks Hill and Mt Moki |
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| Leaving Lake Guyon, and a glimpse of Mt Una (2300m) in cloud back right |
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| Lake Guyon and its' surrounds |
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| Crossing the flats of the Stanley Vale, Mt Clara ahead of us |
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| Looking across Stanley Vale towards the hut, with Pts 1612m & 1596m behind |
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| Making our way across the boggy Stanley Vale - the snow cover certainly helped |
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| Starting back up the Stanley River, Rabbit Hill centre and Aniseed Valley running to the right |
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| Long Spur leading along to Pt 1730m, with Smyths Stream on the right |
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| Looking up the Stanley River, Long Spur on the right |
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| Snack stop at the Stanley/Smyths confluence |
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| Jason looking comfortable, with the Stanley valley beyond |
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| Crossing the Stanley River |
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| Much less snow in Smyths Stream on our return |
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| Snow can really transform an ordinary patch of bush |
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| Smyths Stream |
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| Nearing the head of Smyths Stream |
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| Nearing the head of Smyths Stream, not far from the start of the zig-zag |
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| Starting up the zig-zag to Fowlers Pass |
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| Back on Fowlers Pass, and the view to Mt Stanley |
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| On Fowlers Pass, with Mt Stanley in the background |
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| Crossing Fowlers Pass, with Mt Pickett rising in the background |
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| Heading back down the pack track to the car, with the Crimea Range in the distance |
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| View of Eulalie Mound from the track to Fowlers Pass |
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| Rodney and Brian on the Fowlers Pass track |
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| Descending the final section to the car |
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| Eulalie Mound (1444m) |
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| Inside Fowlers Hut at the end of the tramp |
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Crown Copyright - Land Information NZ
Access: Drive to Hanmer Springs, then over Jacks Pass and onto Tophouse Rd. The start of the track is marked, and Fowlers Hut is an obvious landmark to look for at the roadside.
Time: Carpark to Fowlers Pass 1hr 30mins, pass to Stanley Vale Hut 2hrs 30mins, Stanley Vale Hut to Lake Guyon Hut 1hr
Map: BT24 Ada Pass
Hut: Stanley Vale Hut (2 bunks, historic), Lake Guyon Hut (4 bunks)
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